This is the exterior of our first stop today- Basilica di Santa Pudenziana which is another Filipino stronghold in Rome. This was one of our favorites as it is very much untouched inside. It has alot of restoration work that needs to be done and you feel like you've just discovered something from 500+ years ago. There are signs of many pieces of art and marble walls removed but many still remain. You do see a variety of marble used on the floors. It resembles a poor parish where they've only been able to do minimum work over the years but still looks magnificient.
Above the altar at S. Pudenziana
Further down the road you come across the exact opposite- a massive Basilica that appears quite wealthy in the upkeep and tourists galore. Oh, and before I forget, when you walk around some of these churches it is hard to figure out what door you are supposed to enter as there are many side and back doors but most only want you entering one way. All you have to do is look for the little bobbing kneeling gypsy woman in the doorway and you know you have the right one. Since this Church is so large, they had two gypsies. They leave you alone- just say something in Italian and many don't show their faces. Some though look like they are 20 though. As Clemente said, they must go to bobbing school to learn the proper position and how to bob up and down so perfectly. This is the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Below the altar is this massive statue of a Pope praying. It is very hard to understand the writing on some of these. Even after 4 years in Catholic High School, Latin was not on my list of majors.
This is what the statue was praying to.
This is one of the side altars at Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore.
The ceiling of one of the other side chapels in same Basilica.
Then we proceeded another block to the Basilica di Santa Prassede. This mosaic ceiling was quite impressive.
Inside Basilica di Santa Prassede.
Another ceiling shot in same Basilica
Just a shot of one of the MANY souvenir carts on the street selling magnets and plastic Popes. We then walked to two other churches that had just closed for the afternoon- you've got to get an early start to catch them all at the right time. Then we headed to Via Veneto, that street of Dolce Vita fame of the 1950's. Now it is just a length about 6-7 blocks of extremely high priced hotels and restaurants. We were hungry but didn't want to spend our return flight funds on this one lunch so we got 2 blocks off the street for a wonderful meal.
Here along the Via Veneto you'll find the American Embassy.
Did someone say lunch? Pizza, salad with anchovies, and a carafe of house white wine...almost like we're in Rome. Hey, wait... This is at San Marco, where a lot of office workers stream into between 1:30 and 2:30 pm - all very well dressed. They seem to like this place so we followed them and were not disappointed.
The drivers are amazing here. It doesn't matter how or where you park. Now I know why these are called Smart cars. There are tiny cars and scooters everywhere and yes, you do take your life in your hands when crossing the street. Find a local, and walk with them as they cross as they seem to know how to read the drivers best.
After lunch, onward we went to the Borghese Museum. We did not do the tour today as our reservation was for an earlier time that didn't work with our schedule well. No loss as we have not been deprived of our quantity and quality of art seen so far. We then walked through the park back towards the apartment.
We stopped in at the Church of Immacolata Concezione. The interior is quite dark but did get a good shot here.
Same church. This church is best known for it's crypt of Cappucini monks underneath. They have taken the bones of 4000 monks and displayed them in all shapes and sizes of decorations in wall hangings, chandeliers, arches, stacks of skulls, etc. They would not allow pictures inside. There is no charge but a nun shaking a donation basket before entering is quite an incentive. You felt she was holding the ruler behind her back if you didn't throw something in.
We then finally went to the Palazzo Barberini across the street from our apartment that houses the Galeria Nazionale d'Arte Antica. Once again, no cameras allowed inside. You only get to see one floor on the self guided tour but impressive paintings all from 14th and 15th centuries. The final massive room had the most interesting ceiling fresco that was like 3D. You had to lie down and look up for 10-15 minutes as there was so much in the picture to take in. This is the exterior courtyard in the photo.
Circular staircase climbing up to the museum part.
In the palace courtyard looking across the street to our apartment just to left of the fountain.
Quick video of the crypt below the altar at the Basilica di Santa Prassede
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